Christmas in Colombia is very different than Christmas in the United States, as to be expected. First of all, Christmas in Colombia is a way bigger deal. This is probably due to the fact that most of the country here is Catholic, and also because Colombians love to party, and Christmas is a great reason to do just that.
In Colombia, Christmas season and December are synonymous. To kick off the season, at the beginning of December there is el Día de Las Velitas, where everyone sets candles outside their houses to honor the Virgin Mary, and, of course, everyone gets together with their families to drink guaro and have a good time. Then, a week or so before Christmas, the Novenas start. The novenas are a mixture of prayers and songs to celebrate the imminent coming of Jesus. Really, they're just another excuse for families and friends to get together and party (and I'm certainly not complaining). Then, after the Novenas and after countless buñuelos and plates of natilla have been consumed, Christmas arrives! Here, Christmas is celebrated on the 24th of December; on the 25th, people just sleep in and deal with their hangovers from the night before.
On the 24th, my host family and their extended members got together starting in the morning to make a giant pot of sancocho for lunch. We all ate lunch together, and afterwards, most took a siesta or got a head start on the rum. As the sun started to set, that's when Christmas really began. The music turned up, the people turned out, the natilla got made, and the fun began. There was lots of dancing of every kind, lots of rum and aguardiente, and most importantly, lots of family and love. Around 10 PM, all the gifts were handed out and opened. (Quite different from the usual American ritual of screaming kids rushing for the gifts at 5 AM, isn't it?). The best part about the gift giving was the look on the kids' faces as they unwrapped everything! After this, everyone returned to dancing, drinking, and eating until the fiesta ended at about 4 AM. Throughout the night, I was constantly asked what my family does in the States for Christmas. Everyone looked shocked when I explained to them that my family does not dance, nor drink, and that we usually end the day at 10 PM. "How boring" was the most common reaction I got- and after experiencing the whirlwind of a Colombian Christmas, I must say, it does seem a little boring back home now ;)
Christmas in Colombia was an amazing experience for me. It was so cool to be accepted into the traditions and fiestas of my family and friends here. I learned a lot, and more importantly, had a great time. Colombia must certainly be one of the happiest countries on earth, with some of the warmest people. Christmas was another testament to just that.
Feliz Navidad!
A picture of the alumbrado in Manizales on the Día de Las Velitas:
